A new scientific study presented at the International Workshop on Waves, Storm Surges & Coastal Hazards at the University of Cantabria in Spain suggests that Brazilian surfer Vini dos Santos may have ridden a wave over 100 feet (about 30.5 meters).

The ride happened at Nazaré, Portugal, on February 25, 2022. The work was led by PhD oceanographer Douglas Nemes.

Nemes is the same scientist who validated Lucas Chumbo’s wave at Laje da Jaguaruna as the biggest ever surfed in Brazil.

The study was reviewed by a panel of scientists and won attention because it indicates Vini’s wave may have passed the 100-foot mark.

The current official world record is 86 feet (26.21 meters). That mark was set by German surfer Sebastian Steudtner at Nazaré in October 2020.

Science and Surfing Collide

“The study was submitted to the International Workshop on Waves, an important event for the scientific community, where experts from around the world discuss phenomena, measurement processes, instrumentation, and the physical and mathematical modeling of waves,” explains Douglas Nemes.

“The study’s acceptance for publication represents significant recognition of the development of the technique within academia, with great relevance for the scientific community and for Vini dos Santos, who potentially surfed one of the biggest waves on the planet.”

Nemes added that the international recognition helps keep the research going and “is extremely important for Vini’s career, possibly helping the international recognition of his feat.”

The congress also screened the documentary Ground Swell: The Other Side of Fear, narrated by Josh Brolin.

The film features major surf names, F1 champion Lewis Hamilton, and the moment of Vini’s wave.

Vini on Validation

Vini welcomed the scientific check.

“The scientific study of the significant breaking height of the wave is a validation. A PhD from Brazil is a PhD anywhere in the world. I respect Nemes’ work a lot, because he is also an excellent surfer,” he said.

The first image of the wave was taken by photographer Mike Jones. Jones called it the biggest wave he had ever recorded.

Vini says that the image caught the attention of his friend Douglas Nemes.

“This caught the attention of one of my friends, the oceanographer Douglas Nemes. He was the one who measured and validated Lucas Chumbo’s wave as the biggest in Brazil,” Vini says.

“Douglas, through the method he has developed and refined for 20 years, quantified the significant breaking height of the wave I surfed on February 25, 2022.”

A Moment He Knew Was Huge

“When I rode the wave, I was sure it was the biggest wave of my life. When I was rescued, many surfers came to congratulate me,” added Santos.

“Andrew Cotton spoke to me, and I could see in his eyes how impressed he was. But it was when I saw the first photo: the confirmation came that it could be something historic.”

Ten days before that ride, Vini suffered a severe accident involving a cow that tore his scalp. He needed staples to close the wound.

The near-miss made the Nazaré moment more charged.

“I saw the image of the wave and an emotion took over me – I even cried,” the big wave surfer revealed.

“I think it was because I had almost lost my life days before; I got over the biggest trauma I have ever had, a terrible blow from a 10’2” board to my head.”

“Finally, after the hardship, the ocean showed up for me.”

Teamwork, Risk, and a Volunteer

Vini says he and a large team went to Nazaré together: Alemão de Maresias, Nic Von Rupp, Lucas Fink, Lucas Chumbo, Andrew Cotton, and others.

They had a total of ten jet skis for support.

“I knew it would be the day I would see the biggest waves ever. The whole world was looking at Nazaré. I could achieve my goal: I caught the biggest wave of my life, guided by Lucas Chumbo,” underlined Vini.

He also described the moment he chose to go in.

“At the moment I rode the wave, no one else wanted to go. I would have been the last to enter, but the sea was angry and changing.”

“I promptly raised my hand as a volunteer. In those seconds when the wave came toward us, the confidence that Chumbo gave me helped reduce my fear.”

“Even so, I hit a big bump on the way during the drop, but I completed the obstacle without falling. I believe the consequences would have been fatal if I had taken a different line,” stated the surfer and lifeguard from Florianopolis.

The Douglas Nemes Measurement Method

Douglas Nemes described how the team measures big waves.

“The method used, both to analyze the waves surfed by Lucas Chumbo (at Laje da Jagua) and Vini dos Santos’ wave, is the same and can also be applied to the evaluation of large waves in other places,” the oceanographer tells.

“The development of this method has been carried out over the last 20 years, using oceanographic instrumentation, such as equipment positioned in the breaking area, and measurements with topography techniques, including the use of GPS fixed to the surfers.”

To develop the complete method, more than 5,000 waves were analyzed, reaching the final version that is currently used to evaluate breaking height.

“All this scientific evolution was published in academic articles, during undergraduate, master’s, and doctoral studies,” he added.

The method involves several calculations and analyses.

“The technique consists, first, of analyzing the athlete’s posture in different phases: his normal height, his upright position, and the position he occupies on the wave.”

“From a reference obtained through photographs of the athletes with a metric scale placed behind them, it is possible to determine the surfer’s height relative to the wave.”

“Then I use trigonometry techniques, turning the athlete into a mathematical model, a referenced spatial scale. That scale is inserted into the images to carry out the measurements.”

Which Method Will GWR Use?

As for Vini dos Santos, it’s now all in the hands of the final validation officials.

“To leave a mark in surfing history, with another iconic wave in Nazaré, that’s really cool,” Vini concluded.

“But what matters more is what to do with it, what I can do with this wave and this story. Today I can inspire new surfers and young athletes, and in that way I’m reaching a much bigger goal.”

The World Surf League (WSL), which developed a scientific method for measuring big wave rides, handed the responsibility to Guinness World Records.

There are several methods for measuring big waves in surfing.

The current Guinness World Record holder, alongside his sponsor Porsche, created a special drone that determines the height of waves quickly and precisely.

Henet Wave also uses unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) technology combined with a wave height algorithm to execute the same measurements.

There is also a heated debate on whether surfers must ride the wave to the trough to be considered a complete ride.

Ultimately, due to the complexity of the variables involved in the calculations, there is always a certain degree of subjectivity and error margin associated with the calculations.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com