Soccer, basketball, and tennis players have them before their clashes, so why should surfers embrace them too? Discover some of the most common and surprising pre-surf rituals and superstitions.
Humans are creatures of habit. The coffee in the morning, right after a satisfying breakfast, is just one of them.
Routines keep us confident and comfortable. They provide a sort of delusional safety net for the day (or night) ahead of us.
In high-performance sports, every thin layer of confidence has an impact on performance and success.
It could be the slightest thing, from slapping your own face, looking up to the sky and murmuring a few words, or just warming up vigorously.
It could be a religious or spiritual tic, or even an absolutely mundane practice.
Repeat behaviour can either be a habit or a superstition. Or both. And when they become a routine or ritual, we avoid the risk of not performing them.
The mind has mysterious ways, indeed.
Professional or recreational surfers are exposed to Nature. The sport of surfing is mostly executed in the ocean, despite the wave pool revolution that is taking place.
Therefore, they also have their rituals, superstitions, habits, and routines before paddling out. Let’s take a look at a few we’ve seen on the beach and in competition.
Good-luck Charms and Talismans
Shark-tooth necklaces, puka shells, amulets, or personal tokens (charms bought or passed down) are carried for luck/protection.
Lucky Board
Some surfers believe riding the same board at a specific surf break or wave brings luck. The concept of the magic surfboard is pretty much alive and well.
Waxing Your Feet
Some surfers wax their feet before sessions as a ritual to improve grip – sometimes done with superstition that it helps “lock in” a session.
Pre-surf Rituals (Stretching, Breathing, Visualization, Smudging, Praying)
Many surfers have personal routines: breathing/meditation, dynamic stretching, sun salutations, or small offerings to steady nerves and “ask” for good waves. Surf coaches and lifestyle pieces recommend consistent pre-surf rituals. Praying is very common. Surfing even has a patron saint: St Christopher.
Twerking
There was a time when twerking as a warm-up routine before a competitive heat infuriated many spectators and keyboard warriors, but also opponents who were trying to focus on the ocean and the waves on offer.
Follow the Sheep
Those with less confidence in their wave-reading skills, or who are not willing to take risks, will always join the peak where 100 fellow riders are jostling for position to get one good wave per hour.
Make the Sign of the Cross
Many Catholic surfers make the sign of the cross just before paddling out. It’s either used for protection or gratitude. It is very common in professional surfing.
Right Foot Forward
Stepping in and out of the water with your right foot first is critically meaningful for several surfers. After all, luck and good fortune are part of the game.
Wet Your Face, Hair, or Board
As soon as your feet touch the water, some surfers like to wet their face and hair and splash water over the surfboard, maybe for your body and equipment to feel the element.
First Wave Curse
Some surfers believe that you should let the first good wave go unridden. Otherwise, it will jinx the rest of the session.
Always/Never Take the First Wave of a Set
Surfers are divided on this one. Some argue that getting the first wave of the set is often better than waiting for what’s next; others will say that it’s the other way around. Decisions, decisions.
Get Busy
Many surfers prefer paddling for almost everything that moves to keep busy and increase their wave count and overall fun time, rather than being picky and getting cold waiting for the best wave of the day.
Splashing Water
Kelly Slater was certainly not the first to do it, but he made splashing the water in the lineup while waiting for a wave set a widespread habit.
Just One More, They Said
This one’s a classic. A surfer who calls themself a surfer will always need to ride one more wave beyond the previously declared, formal end of the session. Ideally, it should be the best wave of the session.
Paddling In While Riding a Wave
This one’s one of the most popular among surfers. One should always paddle in while riding a wave. If you’re done, you must surf it to the beach. It’s like avoiding the walk of shame, for instance, in kiteboarding.
Post-Surf Beer
Many groups of friends enjoy gathering around a table for a glass of beer and a few snacks after a session. It’s the perfect ritual for discussing glorious rides and spectacular wipeouts.
Have we missed a good one? Tell us.
Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com
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